HOCKEY STICK SCHOOL
HOCKEY STICK GUIDE - QUICK TIPS
STICK TYPE
This term refers to the force required to make the stick bend when you shoot the puck. To experience the most benefit from your premium stick, you need to engage the flex and allow the stick to work.
If you aren’t sure what flex is right for you, a good starting point is no more than half your weight. For example, if you weigh 180lbs, try no more than an 85/90 flex to start.
IMPORTANT: If you cut your stick, the actual flex of the stick will increase by approximately 5 for every inch you cut off. For example, if you buy a stick with an 85 flex and then cut in inch off the top so that it fits you better, your new flex will now be approximately 90.
CURVE
This is the blade pattern of the stick. Check your player’s current stick for a label or something similar to P92/P29, P28, P90TM etc. That code references the curve. Our patterns are the same as those from Bauer and CCM, they just start with a T (ex. P92 and P29 = T92, P28 = T28, P90TM = T90, etc)
LENGTH
To measure the length of the stick properly, stand the stick up straight against the wall. Then, measure from the floor to the top of the stick and that is the overall length measurement. Ideally, you want to order a stick length as close to the desired measurement as possible so that little to no excess needs to be cut off. Cutting the stick changes the actual flex by about 5 lbs per inch cut off.
HAND
This refers to whether your player is right or left handed – KICK POINT: The Kick point is where the sticks is designed to flex/kick through the weight transfer of shooting the puck. A Mid kick point provides the best overall performance. If you are a Forward who works in tight to the net and uses mainly a wrist shot, perhaps the Low Kick option might work best for you. The High Kick is designed to activate the whole stick while firing the puck in a longer shooting motion – like a booming slap shot from the point or a long, hard wrist shot.
FLEX
This represents the amount of force it takes to bend/activate the benefits of the stick. Generally you want to start with half the players body weight or less to ensure that they can get the benefits of the performance from the carbon fibre. For example, if your player weighs 90lbs, try a 45 Flex or even a 40 Flex. The proper Flex will absolutely make a difference in the velocity and accuracy of a players shots.
WHAT MAKES UP A HOCKEY STICK
HOCKEY STICKS 101
This term refers to the angle at which your stick blade will “lie” flat along the ice when you are skating and stick handling.
For players who skate more bent over and closer to the ice and/or like to use a slightly longer stick for control of the puck more out in front.
For those players who like a slightly shorter stick height and/or skate more upright and handle/control the puck tighter to their body.
FLEX
This term refers to the force required to make the stick bend when you shoot the puck. To experience the most benefit from your premium stick, you need to engage the flex and allow the stick to work.
If you aren’t sure what flex is right for you, a good starting point is no more than half your weight. For example, if you weigh 180lbs, try no more than an 85/90 flex to start.
IMPORTANT: If you cut your stick, the actual flex of the stick will increase by approximately 5 for every inch you cut off. For example, if you buy a stick with an 85 flex and then cut in inch off the top so that it fits you better, your new flex will now be approximately 90.
KICK POINT
This term refers to the area where the stick is designed to flex when shooting. Low Kick, Mid Kick, and High Kick.
Low Kick
This is the most requested option for forwards who are looking for a quick release kick on snap shots and wrist shots.
Mid Kick
This is the most requested option for forwards who are looking for a quick release kick on snap shots and wrist shots.
High Kick
This is the most requested option for forwards who are looking for a quick release kick on snap shots and wrist shots.
BLADE PATTERNS
One of the most important aspects of every stick is the curve. Everybody has their own preference so we have a wide variety of curves offered. Depending on the position you play and what type of shot you often take, finding the right curve to fit your game is crucial. Below are the two most common curves sold today. We have a wide variety of curves available to fit each type of player. In addition to the below patterns, we also have available our T88, T02, T09 and T14.
T92 (PIC) > CURVE : Mid-Toe LIE : 6
Possibly the most popular curve pattern in hockey. Mid curve is excellent for puck control, quick releases on hard shots, as well as tape-to-tape passes.
SIMILAR PATTERNS :
- Easton E3 HALL Bauer P92 MATTHEWS
- CCM/Reebok P29/P90 CROSBY/OVECHKIN Warrior W03 BACKSTROM/KOPITAR
- True TC2 Sherwood PP26 STASTNY
T28 (PIC) > CURVE : Toe LIE : 5
Great for toe drags, quick release shots and over-all puck control, this curve is becoming more and more popular because of its accuracy.
SIMILAR PATTERNS :
- Easton E28 Bauer P28 EICHEL
- True TC4 Sherwood P28
T88 (PIC) > CURVE : Mid LIE : 5
Very versatile pattern allowing for precision puck control and stick handling, as well as quick-release, accurate wrist shots.
SIMILAR PATTERNS :
- Easton E36 Bauer P88 KANE/LINDROS
- CCM/Reebok P40 MACKINNON True MC
- Warrior W88 GAUDREAU/ZETTERBERG Sherwood PP88 RYAN
T88 (PIC) > CURVE : Mid LIE : 5
This pattern is great for precision passes, as well as control and accuracy on slap shots and wrist shots – effective for all and a favorite pattern amongst premier defensemen.
SIMILAR PATTERNS :
- Easton E5 LIDSTROM/GETZLAF Bauer P02 KESLER / P91A STAAL
- Warrior W02 LIDSTROM / W05 GRANLUND/KOVALEV/SUTER
- CCM/Reebok P15 JONES True HCS / HCR
- Sherwood PP05
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